Ukrainian Fashion Week: Frontline Style

From the Euromaidan to the spectacular catwalks in Mystetskiy Arsenal: Kiev’s designers are doing what they can to stand for their country and Ukrainian Fashion Industry.

Political crisis couldn’t leave anyone indifferent and was reflected in most of the presented collections. Ukrainian fashion Week was practically filled with patriotic anxiety and excitement.

"Ukrainian designers are very courageous," says Inga Vyshnevska, founder of Ukraine fashion week. "Most of them were actively taking part in the Maidan protests. They were producing bullet-proof vests and helping in the kitchens, bringing food, water and medication. Naturally, they were not able to forget these experiences when it came to their collections."

Designer Aleksey Zalevskiy incorporates fences into his show during the Ukrainian fashion week, during which models fell to the floor as if they had been shot Photograph: Sergey Dolzhenko/EPA

At Poustovit – the most anticipated show of the UFW – colors of the Ukrainian flag interpreted in sweet pastels, were the main palette of both the collection and make-up. The innocence and the sweetness of the dresses contrasted with gilets and heavy belts that appeared at one point in the collection and looked like body armour.

Victoria Gres introduced collection in the “Post-War” Romanticism style. Her dresses sent amazing 1950’s vibes, and the use of lace detailing added romance.

STRUCTURAL EXCELLENCE

Special attention should be paid to designers who are considered masters of cut and structure. BEVZA explored her recognizable approach to geometric intricacy in dresses and clean-cut coats and detailing.  ELENAREVA also played with cut using folding, drapping and asymmetry. At Litkovskaya – one of the fastest growing labels in Ukraine – the recognizable textual contrast was completed with powerful rounded shoulders, generous fringing, and quilted leather.

Some designers’ themes were not affected by political situation in the country. Valery Kovalska was inspired by the dynamic NYC lifestyle and showed a successful sporty take on gothic prints, hunting coats, and classic dress silhouettes.

MIKAEL D: WORLD MASTERCARD FASHION WEEK SPRING 2014 COLLECTION

Coming out from the reigns of his former partnership at Pavoni, Mikael Derderian’s first showcase under his own signature line (Mikael D) became one of the most talked about shows this season at WMCFW. The eveningwear spectacle had a focus on body-hugging silhouettes. The color palette stayed fairly neutral in black and nude with pops of royal blue, emerald greens and metallics. 

The common motif of strategic beading against a nude illusion gown seems to be a signature in his aesthetic, a technique popularized by high profile designers such as Zuhair Murad and Marchesa. 

When asked about future plans for his label, Derderian said, “ I plan on doing couture in Paris soon and when I do, I plan on doing something outrageous and not just commercial.” With his couture-level craftsmanship and ethereal designs, Mikael D may very well carve a spot in the Chambre Syndicale as his label strengthens each season.

Top 10 Looks! from World Mastercard Toronto Fashion Week | Fall 2014

 

Chanel | Ready To Wear | Fall/Winter 2014-2015 collection

Chanel presented it’s Ready To Wear Fall/Winter 2014-2015 collection.

The show was hosted by very prestigious Grand Palais in Paris, where French designer present their new collections and organize glamorous fashion shows. However, on March 4, it was filled with rows of pasta, cheese, sauces, water bottles and other products of daily life. “Chanel Shopping Center”, specially created for this type of event is absolutely great from creative and marketing standpoint. Lagerfeld keeps Chanel fresh, modern, in tune with times, and at the same time elegant and glamorous. With the “supermarket” runway, he put fashion in the real life. 

Models were “equipped” with colored trolleys and shopping baskets, pretending to shop and picking up products from shelves.

If we will take a look at the autumn/winter designs itself, the core of the collection is oversized tweed jackets, bright sneakers, pencil-thin pants and woolen jogging suits and leggings.

The colors of the collection are really loud, hair of the models was braided and tangled with pile of unwanted receipts.

Karl Lagerfeld as a head designer and creative director of the fashion house Chanel doing his job just amazing! Every year we are getting amazing, fresh and modern looks from him. His concepts stand out and his vision is absolutely different from other designers.

“Doing collections, doing fashion is like a non-stop dialogue.” – Karl Lagerfeld

I truly hope that for a long time this genius designer will create and we will be able to enjoy his flawless collections.