Ukrainian Fashion Week: Frontline Style

From the Euromaidan to the spectacular catwalks in Mystetskiy Arsenal: Kiev’s designers are doing what they can to stand for their country and Ukrainian Fashion Industry.

Political crisis couldn’t leave anyone indifferent and was reflected in most of the presented collections. Ukrainian fashion Week was practically filled with patriotic anxiety and excitement.

"Ukrainian designers are very courageous," says Inga Vyshnevska, founder of Ukraine fashion week. "Most of them were actively taking part in the Maidan protests. They were producing bullet-proof vests and helping in the kitchens, bringing food, water and medication. Naturally, they were not able to forget these experiences when it came to their collections."

Designer Aleksey Zalevskiy incorporates fences into his show during the Ukrainian fashion week, during which models fell to the floor as if they had been shot Photograph: Sergey Dolzhenko/EPA

At Poustovit – the most anticipated show of the UFW – colors of the Ukrainian flag interpreted in sweet pastels, were the main palette of both the collection and make-up. The innocence and the sweetness of the dresses contrasted with gilets and heavy belts that appeared at one point in the collection and looked like body armour.

Victoria Gres introduced collection in the “Post-War” Romanticism style. Her dresses sent amazing 1950’s vibes, and the use of lace detailing added romance.

STRUCTURAL EXCELLENCE

Special attention should be paid to designers who are considered masters of cut and structure. BEVZA explored her recognizable approach to geometric intricacy in dresses and clean-cut coats and detailing.  ELENAREVA also played with cut using folding, drapping and asymmetry. At Litkovskaya – one of the fastest growing labels in Ukraine – the recognizable textual contrast was completed with powerful rounded shoulders, generous fringing, and quilted leather.

Some designers’ themes were not affected by political situation in the country. Valery Kovalska was inspired by the dynamic NYC lifestyle and showed a successful sporty take on gothic prints, hunting coats, and classic dress silhouettes.